From the category archives:

Design

Tornado Shelter: an example of a safe room.

by chriscrimmins on April 11, 2009

in Design, How-To

Finished Tornado Shelter

In the past few weeks Middle Tennessee has been hit hard with stormy weather including more than our share of tornadic activity.  At best the loss has been a tree or two, at worst the loss is of life. Yesterday the 10th of April  in Murfreesboro, 110 homes were destroyed which including the loss of 2 lives.  The deaths occurred when a mother and her young child tried to flee their home.

Many homes today are built without even a small cellar.  Taking shelter in one of these home usually comes down to crouching in a hallway, or huddled in a bathtub.   This past year we built and installed a tornado shelter during some extensive remodeling.  The picture above is a view of the finished shelter.  The shelter barely perceivable, sits under the screened in porch. We installed a tongue and groove porch deck above the shelter, so the only thing that gives the shelter away from inside is the stairwell heading down.

Here is a quick progression of work.

Demo existing porch – Excavate area for form work – Pour 8-12 inch think pad with re bar 6″ O.C. – Setup form work for walls and floor with same re bar layout – Pour walls and ceiling together – Build steps into storm shelter – Finish exterior with brick and screened porch. Here are some pictures of the work.

Formwork Shelter

Stairwell and Formwork

Forms Removed

Waterproofing the concrete with a rubber membrane below grade, and daylighting  a floor drain ensures that come what may our safe room won’t become a swimming pool.  For more protection, the stairwell heading down into the shelter is divided from the main safe area while still being inside the walls of the entire shelter.  With a 12 inch thick high strength concrete ceiling,  the storm shelter was designed to withstand the fall of the adjacent home on top of it, and still have an exit in the form of a small window on the backside.  Add electricity and lights and you have a room worthy to wait out an storm.

Where is your tornado safe zone in your current house?

{ 0 comments }

10 Questions to Ask Your Cabinet Maker

by chriscrimmins on April 8, 2009

in Design, How-To

Cabinet Inset Doors

Cabinets can make or break a space.  They have infinite options, endless design possibilities, and can easily cost more than the car you drive.  So I believe you would want to know the how and what of your cabinets.  Before going forward, I am going to give some definitions.

1. Case: The inside box of your cabinets.  The carcass can vary in quality and finish and can be easily overlooked.

2. Face Frames: Face frames attach to the front of cases and can range in size.  Most cabinet doors attach to these face frames.  There is also a chance that your cabinet will  have anything more than edge banding (a thin veneer) on the front of your cases.

3. Toe Kicks: The space under the cabinet that allows room for your toes as you stand at the cabinets.  There are different styles and they can house a variety of items.  Heat registers, drawers for step ladders, or even central house vacpan’s.

4. Hinges and Slides: The necessary hardware used to operate your doors and drawers.  These can greatly affect the quality feeling behind your cabinets.

5. Doors and Drawer fronts: Covering all or most of the openings in your cabinetry, these are the main visible aspect of the cabinets. Material and style are of utmost importance.

6. Finish: The coatings that protect your investment.  Much like the paint on your car, finishes give style and protection.  Stain, paint, and top coats are all in for consideration.

7. Knobs and Pulls: One of those items that usually doesn’t make the first or second round of discussions, knobs and pulls can be vastly important not only to the look of the cabinet but to their function.

these are a few terms that you will want to know when designing and ordering cabinets.  They should reflect your personality, but be of a quality grade that will yield many years of use.  My rule is, if the budget is tight, build fewer and allow for future expansion.  A few really well organized cabinets are infinitely better than many cheap cabinets that you will want to remove in the future.  The greenest build is building to last!

So here are 10 Questions to Ask Your Cabinet Maker:

1. What materials will you use in making the cabinets? Poplar core sheet goods (plywood) for the cases and solid hardwood for the face frames are a must for longevity.

2. How are the cabinets being assembled? For the norm, dadoes (a groove in the side of the case to accept top or bottom) for strength and pocket screws for face frames will suffice.  Cheaply stapled cases without glue will readily fall apart.

3. What are the finishes and will they be finished on site or in shop? Personally as a builder I prefer Shop finished cabinets.  For some historic homes,  site brushed oils look timeless, but there are many conditions on a job site that can lead to adverse finishes.  A sprayed conversion varnish or lacquer are both good finishes.  I prefer clear drawer boxes and interiors unless visible through glass doors or the absence of doors.     Quick note, sheet goods for cases can be bought finished such as a UV Maple plywood.  These assemble quickly with no need for spraying interiors.  Nothing is worse over the long run than with a painted interior that gums up with use.

4. How are the drawers and slide out shelves made? Dovetailed drawers are the standard of strength, but material and an alternative type of mechanical connection are the most  important.  Solid wood sides are best, but please no stapled MDF.  In fact, please no MDF at all in cabinets.  MDF is not a structural material when attached perpendicular with like materials.   I have seen a few painted shelves that turn out okay in MDF, but I still prefer quality sheet goods.

5. What Hardware will you use? Under mount soft close are my favorites.  Blum has a spectacular line and are a delight to use.  With good hardware you will find that you open and close cabinet doors just for fun or to show your friends.  Ask to see a sample and slide if back and forth or open it.  For the doors, there are soft close features that will keep them from banging. Quality hardware will last much longer.

6. What are my doors made of and what will the style be? Raised panel, Shaker, are all types of style.  Inset or Overlay refer to cabinet positioning.  Inset doors are  inline with the face frame.  Overlay doors overlaps the face frames.  If you are confused of style, there is a good chance a consultation with a cabinet designer will help. As for material, solid wood will lend itself to a long life.  Remember in design, the taller and wider the door, the more chance the door has to warp.  It is one of the beauties of wood that being a natural material it will move.

7. Will you provide the design and shop drawings or will I need to? This is one aspect where cabinet design can make or break the feel and usefullness of your kitchen.  I would highly recommend input by a professional on this subject.  Where to place pots and pans, linens, silverware, the dishwasher, sink etc can be exciting and overwhelming.  You can be as detailed as you want!  Find out who needs to supply and approve this information before the wrong cabinets are made.

8. What is behind the doors? This is a tricky one because when you approve drawings, many times the number of shelves, slide out drawers, trash bin recievers, and many other items can be left out of the conscious.  This is a great time to tackle expectations on what is included.

9. How long will the cabinets take to make and install? This is a simple question that can change everything.

10. Is the installation included? Installation is a big factor, and I prefer that the cabinet maker installs.  That way any mistakes or adjustments are their responsibility. Also ask if the knobs and pulls will be installed as well.

So on your next cabinet purchase, relax, and enjoy the process.  The work will be well worth the usefullness and beauty of an amazing set of cabinets.

What questions would you add to the mix?

{ 14 comments }

Sick of Granite: Try these Alternative Countertops

by chriscrimmins on February 5, 2009

in Design

Few elements of a kitchen draw as much attention, or as much money, as a countertop does. Over the past decade granite (along with other natural stones), has become so popular that it has lost its allure and now remains common. If you’re looking for a countertop that will make a dramatic style and possibly eco-friendly statement consider the following options:

Bamboo: Price $20-$35 per sq. ft
We have all seen a new wave of bamboo products from cutting boards to furniture and now countertops. Bamboo is a sustainable product and can withstand a significant amount of abuse. It should be treated like any wood counter, and comes with the same benefits such as a entire cutting board surface. It prevents burns and when applied with a sealer prevents staining.
Bamboo-countertop-320

Paper: $35-$90 per sq. ft

Sounds like a contradiction to use paper as a countertop, but when saturated with resin, heated and compressed the result is very similar to stone. You can go with post-consumer waste paper if you are more eco-conscious but it tends to vary in thickness making it more difficult to install. Or choose virgin paper material which allows for tighter tolerance during fabrication

.Paper countertop

Scrap-Metal: $70-150 per sq. ft
These materials are an eco-friendly alternative to stainless steel made from mixing aluminum shavings with UV-stable polymeric resin, resulting in about 60% post-industrial scrap metal. These countertops cannot be cut on site and thus require precise templating and layouts prior to ordering.
Scrap metal countertop

Solid Glass: $65-$300 per sq ft

Clean and modern and surprisingly durable and extremely sanitary. There are three different types of glass that fabricators use when creating the countertops. 1. Float glass (like window pane glass) 2. Slump glass (window pane glass heated to contour to a specific mold)  3. Kiln-fired glass (recycled glass fragments heated in kiln and bonded back together) The one down side to glass is that is does scratch.

Glass countertop

So when thinking about your kitchen remodel consider these new and interesting options for your countertops.

{ 5 comments }